Donaustadt & the Danube

What it is

The 22nd district is the largest in Vienna by area, spread across the left bank of the Danube. For most of history this was floodplain, fishing villages and farmland. The great regulation of 1870–75 cut the river a new straight bed and left the old meandering arm behind as the Alte Donau, a still, clean lake. A century later the city dug a flood-relief channel alongside the river and piled the spoil into a long narrow island. Then came the UN, the towers of Donau City, and more recently Seestadt Aspern, one of Europe's largest new urban quarters, built on an old airfield.

What is here

The Danube Island, some twenty kilometres of meadows, beaches, cycle paths and swimming spots, and home each summer to a huge free open-air festival. The Alte Donau, where the Viennese swim, sail and hire pedal boats from wooden bathing clubs; Zur Alten Kaisermühle serves lunch by the water. The Donaupark and its Danube Tower of 1964, with an observation deck and a revolving restaurant above the whole city. The Vienna International Centre, known as UNO City, one of the United Nations' main seats. Further east, the wetland forests of the Lobau, part of the Donau-Auen National Park.

What it is like

A different city from the one in the postcards. Summer is its season: weekday evenings on the island with a swim and a beer, weekends when half of Vienna seems to be lying on the grass by the Alte Donau. Around Donau City the glass towers are busy with office workers by day and quiet by night. The residential parts are modern, spacious and mostly unremarkable. In winter much of the waterfront shuts down.

Who should stay here

Families and active travellers visiting in summer, who want water, bikes and space more than baroque interiors. Business travellers at the UN or in Donau City, where international chains such as Meliá Vienna in the DC Tower and NH Danube City are the obvious choice. Not the right base for a first, culture-focused trip.

Practical

U1 crosses the river with stops at Donauinsel, Kaisermühlen-VIC and Alte Donau, a short ride from Stephansplatz; U2 runs out to Seestadt. The catch: from anywhere beyond the U1 corridor the centre is far, and outside the warm months the district offers visitors very little. If you are here for the water, check the weather before planning a lake day — see our weather page and getting around guide.